Our favorite restaurant reviewer visits Bouchon at The Venetian –
Bouchon is an odd but worthy bird. Perched far away from the hubbub of The Venetian’s casino and shops, this brain-child of chef Thomas Keller is a shining example of “The Disneyland Effect”. That phenomenon is the re-working of a familiar entity, like New Orleans’s French Quarter, which ends up far grander, glossier and more polished than the real thing ever was.
In this case, the restaurant designer has taken the notion of a Parisian bistro and blown it up into an idealized, sanitized, over-sized and utterly beguiling stage set. Minus the nicotine stained walls and crusty old waiters, Bouchon is all the right stuff writ large — (more…)